Don't know. For something that big I might shape the block out of what ever and super glue it in place. When clean and activator used it can hold quite well.

LOG

 

LOG........ya been usen that butane lighter again.....something that big.....1/16-1/8"...I'm talking miniscule....top of left grip needs a little stop for the thumb safety paddle.....unless you want to tig the safety for me....frame relief cut is a little to deep so safety drops a little to low and then has a little wiggle to it. Old grips were cut higher and paddle rested on the grip. Only found the problem when I purchased new grips.
Can't find anyone around here to tig it like the artist you are. Maybe I'll use the JB Weld on the safety.....Hmmmm.

 

Yes, G-10 and JBWeld work well together. I glue G-10 control horns into high performance r/c sailplanes and it works great.

You can scuff the surface up for a little extra toth, and degreast the part before gluing.

 

Great stuff use them on my 35% planes also. Log is dead on though especially when gluing composite to composite thin or medium CA glue (super glue) wicks in to the composite and creates a surprisingly strong bond.

 

I suppose it's worth a try, either JB Weld or epoxy.

If you want to make your own G-10 grips raw material is available here:

http://www.jantzsupply.com/cartease...earch-products.cfm?field=categories.primary&string=G-10&string2=Handle Material

 

JB weld will work, Loctite has a 2 part epoxy in a dual tube push plunger, works real good, since G10 is basically epoxy, fiberglass modified resin, you will have good results. Just fixed a set of VZ Operators G10 grips with the Locktite.

 

Which Locktite epoxy....they have several.....was in auto parts store today and bought JB Weld.....use it all the time for other stuff around here....saw the Locktite...they had several different kinds....didn't have the time to read all the fine print to see what use each was for.

 

I think the JB might be the fix, I understand now, crack helps. You had said it was a long story, but the safety flopping around isn't a long story......it's just a not right sorta thing story. I'll put a dot on your safety if you'd like though. I'll weld it up and fit it to one of my guns and send you an old one out of my parts box.:biglaugh:

LOG

 

Log......ya think a dot of JB would work in the frame relief slot between the flange and lobe of the safety, then I could file to fit....or would TIG be better? I would rather have the frame stop the travel as opposed to having the grip stop the over travel. It sounds anal and probably my OCD but that small amount of wiggle irks me.
Don't want to buy new safety....trying to economize now that your President saw to it that us SS recipients won't be getting our annual increases for at least the next two years and same with my meeger pension....increases suspended indefinetly. Thats why I need George to pay off our wager with chickens and cows.

 

JB on G10 sounds better then JB on steel. One other option without actually seeing the situation. I personally like the lever to be parallel with the plunger tube. If it is not quite there until pushed that little bit more, then changing the detent higher could be an answer. In other words the detent should be in concert with the mechanical stop. Or......

LOG

 

Log......the detent is a little oversized or wallered out some so the the safety stops on the frame cutout and at that point the nose of the lever is just slightly below parallel with the plunger tube....then a very slight upward pressure on the lever brings it up to parallel where it should be but it will wiggle up and down....so there is free play in the detent......if the frame recess in the TS (between the rear of the flange and TS lobe gets a small blob of TIG then fitted to stop on the frame recess when the lever is parallel there will not be any play in the TS as it won't go down any farther to take advantage of the free play in the detent.

Bob Rodgers....thx for the reply Bob....I was trying to avoid purchasing a new SS safety and then having to fit it....note this IS an Ed Brown TS and this is the way it came factory installed in a Brown pistol....never noticed the problem before till I changed grips....with the original grips the TS downward movement was being stopped by the top of the left grip panel. Originally there were other minor fit and finish problems with this pistol and I addressed them all myself.....never new about this one till I changed grips. Can't justify spending the bucks for a new TS right now so I'm looking for a suitable fix. Safety functions fine....but like I said, I'm anal.

 

If ya haven't already figured it out....I like to tinker....probably have too much time on my hands....as an experiment I am going to try JBW on the TS...just a small dab or two should do it...not a high stress area so I think it will work. Tested JBW on a scrap piece of SS and after completly setting up I could not beat it off with a hammer,chisel or any other means I tried. I have used JBW in the past to bond items but never to just build a small bead. If it doesn't work I'll dig deep and buy a new one.

 

Jim,

If your pistol currently has the Brown "Tactical" model safety installed, I've found that those don't have the same amount of 'meat' on the lug that his wide model safety has. For that reason, I prefer the wide safety, plus it allows me to shape the paddle myself.

 

+1 on that Bob, it's the tactical model..... I'll play with it and experiment some but eventually I'll talk myself iinto fitting a new one. Good to know the wide safety has more meat on the lug and I would like to be able to shape the paddle to my liking.