Depends on the "doer".

People use fine-cut files, stones, and abrasive paper wrapped around wooded sticks or files.

For the radical "Super-melt" pioneered by Clark, they use power polishing equipment since so much metal is removed.

To do a standard "Carry bevel" job, I start out with small fine-cut Swiss files to JUST break the sharp edges, then wrap fine automotive abrasive paper around the same files to remove all filing marks and smooth the area up.

For sharp corners or edges in curved areas, I do use a flex-shaft with rubber abrasive tips, BUT you have to be SUPER careful, since the tool tends to "run away" and run over other areas, leaving marks that are very difficult to remove.

It was always disheartening to just be finishing up an area only to allow a moment's inattention to allow the tool to run over a slide flat leaving a mar.

For this reason, I recommend non-pros stick with the files and abrasive paper, with the file used VERY little.
MOST of the work should be done with the abrasive paper.

The abrasive paper or cloth can be bought at most auto supply houses.

ALWAYS wrap the abrasives around a stick, file, or dowl rod. NEVER use it by hand.

 

I'm gong to be experimenting with this soon. I bought the following grades of sandpaper: 60, 100, 150, 220, 320. Will these be sufficient for removing metal and then polishing up the surface?

 

I'm gong to be experimenting with this soon. I bought the following grades of sandpaper: 60, 100, 150, 220, 320. Will these be sufficient for removing metal and then polishing up the surface?

add 400 and 600 and higher if you want real polished edges

 

I believe 450 for about 20 min should work on a Glock! :rofl:

 

I believe 450 for about 20 min should work on a Glock! :rofl:

good,

I was thinking 2400 for 2 hrs would do it for a 1911.

geo

 

This moron seems to know what he is talking about some of the time.
http://blindhogg.com/gunsmith/dehorning.html

 

This moron seems to know what he is talking about some of the time.
http://blindhogg.com/gunsmith/dehorning.html

Oh Hogg, you're just too self-conscious. :biglaugh:

I already had your webpage bookmarked and plan to refer to it quite often. Have you ever done a serious "melt" on a 1911?? Your dehorn looks good.

Are you near the Hampton Roads area? I might need your help.

 

I cant say I have ever done a serious dehorn like Clark has done in some magazine articles I have seen. If I ever had to do a serious melting job I would use a Slack belt sander with a fine grit belt. Should be easy as long as you take your time and are patient.
PS I moved out of VA and moved back to NC a year or so ago.
Ft Bragg just pulled me back.
Chris

 

I'm gong to be experimenting with this soon. I bought the following grades of sandpaper: 60, 100, 150, 220, 320. Will these be sufficient for removing metal and then polishing up the surface?

Try 400 - 1600 grit. Anything below 400 is way too course.