AFAIK, trigger creep can never be eliminated. When you have a good trigger, it seems that the lack of creep is only perceived. On a few guns that I've handled that were touted by the owners as having zero creep actually have creep if you hold the gun on it's side and watch the travel. You just don't feel it when you shoot because that tiny bit of travel is so smooth and short and because once your finger exerts enough force to break friction the rest of the travel just happens. Am I getting this right, or is there an actual zero creep trigger possible while still being safe? Seems like it would be a dangerous condition to have.
Dannicus
You are correct in that when not watching the trigger it feels like it doesn't move between take-up and fire, but it has to move some. I watch the sear in the hammer strut slot in good light and pull the trigger slow while watching. If the hammer drops without me seeing the sear move I'm happy, but if I can see it move it needs a little more stoning.
LOG
LOG
If anyone is wondering what Jerry and Chuck are talking about, take a look at this thread:
http://www.1911pro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=277
It's long (25 pages and still going) but might be some of the most enlightening info on 1911 trigger jobs and how hammers and sears interact that you've ever seen.
http://www.1911pro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=277
It's long (25 pages and still going) but might be some of the most enlightening info on 1911 trigger jobs and how hammers and sears interact that you've ever seen.
My view is that there are acceptable tolerances. It's not clear how you could have zero creep as measured by instrument; the assembly has to go through a mechanical sequence.
It could be refined to the point where very few people can feel any creep, but you also don't want a hair trigger either, IMO. You want just the right amount of creep in there; however, that gets into the realm of personal preference.
On the other hand, there are plenty of guns with a long, gritty creep and a mushy type of break. Ok for basic range work, but when you begin getting into repeatably accurate range work, you'll quickly want something much better.
If you've been around guns for a while, there's a huge difference in triggers. One of the first things I had done to my carry Kimber was a nice trigger job by a smith who really knew what he was doing.
It could be refined to the point where very few people can feel any creep, but you also don't want a hair trigger either, IMO. You want just the right amount of creep in there; however, that gets into the realm of personal preference.
On the other hand, there are plenty of guns with a long, gritty creep and a mushy type of break. Ok for basic range work, but when you begin getting into repeatably accurate range work, you'll quickly want something much better.
If you've been around guns for a while, there's a huge difference in triggers. One of the first things I had done to my carry Kimber was a nice trigger job by a smith who really knew what he was doing.
Trigger creep
There is always movement when you start pressing the trigger. If the sear and hammer hooks are .020", then pressing the trigger starts to release the fire control parts, and the sear has to move to release the hammer hooks.
A good trigger job will remove any other factors that may affect the feel of the trigger, other than the smooth release of the sear nose against the hammer hooks.
Some of the problems I have corrected to reduce the feel of trigger creep are:
1) incorrect geometry of the sear nose against the hammer hooks
2) wide hammer hooks....I strive for .018" - 0.20" width, never less due to the chance of hammer follow
3) top of disconnector rubbing on the disconnector cut out of the slide
4) problems with the sear and/or the disconnector being out of spec.
5) forward and lateral disconnector movement through the top of the frame due to an oversized disconnector hole through the frame
6) improperly sized/fitted hammer and sear pins
7) burrs on the inside of the trigger slots of the frame or trigger pad rubbing excessively on the frame
I am sure there are other problems that may cause trigger creep, but these are some of the main issues I have found that may inadvertenly cause the feel of excessive movement before the sear releases the hammer.
There is always movement when you start pressing the trigger. If the sear and hammer hooks are .020", then pressing the trigger starts to release the fire control parts, and the sear has to move to release the hammer hooks.
A good trigger job will remove any other factors that may affect the feel of the trigger, other than the smooth release of the sear nose against the hammer hooks.
Some of the problems I have corrected to reduce the feel of trigger creep are:
1) incorrect geometry of the sear nose against the hammer hooks
2) wide hammer hooks....I strive for .018" - 0.20" width, never less due to the chance of hammer follow
3) top of disconnector rubbing on the disconnector cut out of the slide
4) problems with the sear and/or the disconnector being out of spec.
5) forward and lateral disconnector movement through the top of the frame due to an oversized disconnector hole through the frame
6) improperly sized/fitted hammer and sear pins
7) burrs on the inside of the trigger slots of the frame or trigger pad rubbing excessively on the frame
I am sure there are other problems that may cause trigger creep, but these are some of the main issues I have found that may inadvertenly cause the feel of excessive movement before the sear releases the hammer.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
